A
golden eagle perched high in a poplar tree surveys his domain. He
sees something far below. It’s a wary ground squirrel moving along
the lava rocks. The squirrel stops under the protective cover of a
red and green leafed California redbud. He looks all around; he
seems to know he is being watched. The eagle’s attention is
diverted by a noisy flock of Canadian geese flying across Big Lake to
the fields beyond. When the eagle turns back, the squirrel has
disappeared. And so, once again, nature’s drama is played out in
Ahjumawi Lava Springs State Park.
Ahjumawi
(Ah joo maw we) is a lonely place. It’s located in northeastern
California and is one of that state’s most primitive state parks,
and it may be the least visited, as well. Lassen Peak to the south
and Mt. Shasta to the north are visible from many spots within the
park. Think of it, a state park that has no cars, no RVs, no crowded
campsites, and for much of the time no humans. In addition, there
are no occupied buildings, only an abandoned farmhouse, a barn, and a
19th century trapper’s cabin.
There
is a bit of a mystery as to the meaning of the Indian word, ahjumawi.
Some say it means, “where the waters come together,” while
others maintain it’s the name the Indians, a band of the Pit River
group, gave themselves, “the river people.” Water was extremely
important to the Ahjumawis. In this area they found a plentiful
supply of it from several lakes, ponds and the largest system of
fresh water springs in the US. All this water provided the Ahjumawis
with an abundance of fish.
Along the park’s shore one can find
ancient prehistoric fish traps. There were comprised of a succession
of increasingly smaller ponds, into which the Ahjumawis literally
herded fish until all they had to do was reach down, grab and toss
the fish ashore. They were especially fond of suckerfish, which they
smoked and ate head and all.
As
you might imagine, the park is accessible only by boat. Visitors
must bring their own; there are no rental boats available. At a spot
the locals call “The Rat Farm,” located a half-mile north of the
town of McArthur, there is a launch site. The waterway into the park
passes over ancient lava flows. In some places there are narrow
channels between the barely submerged rocks. The water is clear, so
obstacles are visible to the watchful boater. However, anyone not
paying attention can easily scrape across a lava flow and do damage
to a boat’s hull, or an engine’s prop.
Ahjumawi
is a haven for nature lovers, photographers, canoeists, and people
looking for contemplative solitude. Some day Ahjumawi may have the
kind of facilities that all the other state parks have. But for now,
anyone who enjoys the primitive will find this park ideal. So load a
boat with your fishing gear, your camera equipment, your artist
palette, your bird watching binoculars, or your favorite book and go
to Ahjumawi. Just don’t be surprised if you find yourself there
alone.
Q
