Ahjumawi Lava Springs State Park

A golden eagle perched high in a poplar tree surveys his domain. He sees something far below. It’s a wary ground squirrel moving along the lava rocks. The squirrel stops under the protective cover of a red and green leafed California redbud. He looks all around; he seems to know he is being watched. The eagle’s attention is diverted by a noisy flock of Canadian geese flying across Big Lake to the fields beyond. When the eagle turns back, the squirrel has disappeared. And so, once again, nature’s drama is played out in Ahjumawi Lava Springs State Park.

Ahjumawi (Ah joo maw we) is a lonely place. It’s located in northeastern California and is one of that state’s most primitive state parks, and it may be the least visited, as well. Lassen Peak to the south and Mt. Shasta to the north are visible from many spots within the park. Think of it, a state park that has no cars, no RVs, no crowded campsites, and for much of the time no humans. In addition, there are no occupied buildings, only an abandoned farmhouse, a barn, and a 19th century trapper’s cabin.

There is a bit of a mystery as to the meaning of the Indian word, ahjumawi. Some say it means, “where the waters come together,” while others maintain it’s the name the Indians, a band of the Pit River group, gave themselves, “the river people.” Water was extremely important to the Ahjumawis. In this area they found a plentiful supply of it from several lakes, ponds and the largest system of fresh water springs in the US. All this water provided the Ahjumawis with an abundance of fish.      

Along the park’s shore one can find ancient prehistoric fish traps. There were comprised of a succession of increasingly smaller ponds, into which the Ahjumawis literally herded fish until all they had to do was reach down, grab and toss the fish ashore. They were especially fond of suckerfish, which they smoked and ate head and all.

As you might imagine, the park is accessible only by boat. Visitors must bring their own; there are no rental boats available. At a spot the locals call “The Rat Farm,” located a half-mile north of the town of McArthur, there is a launch site. The waterway into the park passes over ancient lava flows. In some places there are narrow channels between the barely submerged rocks. The water is clear, so obstacles are visible to the watchful boater. However, anyone not paying attention can easily scrape across a lava flow and do damage to a boat’s hull, or an engine’s prop.

Ahjumawi is a haven for nature lovers, photographers, canoeists, and people looking for contemplative solitude. Some day Ahjumawi may have the kind of facilities that all the other state parks have. But for now, anyone who enjoys the primitive will find this park ideal. So load a boat with your fishing gear, your camera equipment, your artist palette, your bird watching binoculars, or your favorite book and go to Ahjumawi. Just don’t be surprised if you find yourself there alone.

Q