Pioche (pee-OACH), that’s the way the locals pronounced it, has a population of about 2100, which makes it too small for large shopping centers and strip malls. That’s probably a good thing because Pioche seems to be getting along nicely without such modern conveniences and I have the feeling, after meeting a couple of the residents, all that falderol, to use their words, would not be welcomed. That fits with what I’ve found in other out-of-the-way small towns. They all seem to have that same rugged independence. The rest of the world is far, far away and that's just fine with them.
After an initial look around, I checked into the Overland Hotel and Saloon and then headed for the museum, which is my usual starting place in a new town. There is always a knowledgeable person sitting behind a desk waiting to greet you. They almost always know what's going on in town and the displays show the local history, all of which help to point out what to see and explore. I had a nice conversation with the lady who was on duty that day. We spoke of many things, but the one that really had my attention was when she told me about the water situation. Water starved Las Vegas is buying up water rights up and down the east side of Nevada just as fast as it can. While she spoke, I kept thinking of the book “Cadillac Desert.” Then Owens Valley was the target and Mulholland and the boys nearly sucked it dry watering Los Angeles. It looks like history is being repeated, this time in Eastern Nevada.
Pioche was named for wealthy San Francisco financier, Francois L. A. Pioche, who developed the town after buying up mining claims, which eventually added millions to his wallet. In its early years, Pioche was certainly a rough and tumbled place. From 1871-1872 60% of all the killings in Nevada occurred in Pioche. They like to tell the story of how 75 men were buried in the cemetery before anyone died of natural causes. Silver was the draw that caused fortune searchers to flock to Pioche. During the boom years from 1870 to 1877 $20 million worth of silver was mined. Seventy years later, long after the mines had closed, a second economic boom occurred. Only this time it was a different kind of ore. The area became the second largest producer of lead and zinc in the nation during WWII. Today there is very little mining left. Pioche is the county seat and government is now the main focus.
Pioche is home to the famous or infamous $1,000,000 courthouse, called that because of mismanagement, excessive overruns, underhanded kickbacks, bungling and out and out fraud that went into the building of it. In 1872 the county budgeted $26,000, but building ended up costing nearly a million by the time the debt coupled with all the financial shenanigans and the interest from multiple refinancing were all added up. It wasn't until 1937 that the debt was finally paid off.
They recently built a fine new elementary school to replace the old one. An old timer I spoke with said, with a good amount of disdain in his voice, “They did that not because they needed a new school, but simply because they wanted one.” He told me the district sold the old school. $50,000 was the price tag and according to the old timer, it was done underhanded without any public notice. I check it out; it’s a handsome mission-styled building. The new owner occupied it and soon fell into disfavor with the townfolks. “He was doing all kinds of drugs and stuff like that, so we ran him out of town.” That will teach him to run afoul of Nevadans. The building has been condemned, so who knows what fate has in store for it.
Spring Valley just east of Pioche is what its name implies. It has over 150 natural springs feeding into it. Now you know why Las Vegas has its eye on the area. But it’s definitely not going to get that spring water without a long protracted fight from the locals, who say quite openly and loudly, “Get hosed Vegas.”
My last contact before leaving town was with a retired gentleman whose daughter owns the local café. I asked him what he liked about living in Pioche. “It’s the peace and quiet, the people and the good weather.” The café was closed because they were painting the interior, so the gentleman gave me a standing invitation to come back and try the food the next time through. I think I will. I like Pioche a lot.
After an initial look around, I checked into the Overland Hotel and Saloon and then headed for the museum, which is my usual starting place in a new town. There is always a knowledgeable person sitting behind a desk waiting to greet you. They almost always know what's going on in town and the displays show the local history, all of which help to point out what to see and explore. I had a nice conversation with the lady who was on duty that day. We spoke of many things, but the one that really had my attention was when she told me about the water situation. Water starved Las Vegas is buying up water rights up and down the east side of Nevada just as fast as it can. While she spoke, I kept thinking of the book “Cadillac Desert.” Then Owens Valley was the target and Mulholland and the boys nearly sucked it dry watering Los Angeles. It looks like history is being repeated, this time in Eastern Nevada.
Pioche was named for wealthy San Francisco financier, Francois L. A. Pioche, who developed the town after buying up mining claims, which eventually added millions to his wallet. In its early years, Pioche was certainly a rough and tumbled place. From 1871-1872 60% of all the killings in Nevada occurred in Pioche. They like to tell the story of how 75 men were buried in the cemetery before anyone died of natural causes. Silver was the draw that caused fortune searchers to flock to Pioche. During the boom years from 1870 to 1877 $20 million worth of silver was mined. Seventy years later, long after the mines had closed, a second economic boom occurred. Only this time it was a different kind of ore. The area became the second largest producer of lead and zinc in the nation during WWII. Today there is very little mining left. Pioche is the county seat and government is now the main focus.
Pioche is home to the famous or infamous $1,000,000 courthouse, called that because of mismanagement, excessive overruns, underhanded kickbacks, bungling and out and out fraud that went into the building of it. In 1872 the county budgeted $26,000, but building ended up costing nearly a million by the time the debt coupled with all the financial shenanigans and the interest from multiple refinancing were all added up. It wasn't until 1937 that the debt was finally paid off.
They recently built a fine new elementary school to replace the old one. An old timer I spoke with said, with a good amount of disdain in his voice, “They did that not because they needed a new school, but simply because they wanted one.” He told me the district sold the old school. $50,000 was the price tag and according to the old timer, it was done underhanded without any public notice. I check it out; it’s a handsome mission-styled building. The new owner occupied it and soon fell into disfavor with the townfolks. “He was doing all kinds of drugs and stuff like that, so we ran him out of town.” That will teach him to run afoul of Nevadans. The building has been condemned, so who knows what fate has in store for it.
Spring Valley just east of Pioche is what its name implies. It has over 150 natural springs feeding into it. Now you know why Las Vegas has its eye on the area. But it’s definitely not going to get that spring water without a long protracted fight from the locals, who say quite openly and loudly, “Get hosed Vegas.”
My last contact before leaving town was with a retired gentleman whose daughter owns the local café. I asked him what he liked about living in Pioche. “It’s the peace and quiet, the people and the good weather.” The café was closed because they were painting the interior, so the gentleman gave me a standing invitation to come back and try the food the next time through. I think I will. I like Pioche a lot.
2 comments:
Sam...so enjoyed a visit to Pioche. Thanks,
Great photography! Who is that old guy in the red coat?Must be one of the locals. We enjoyed our visit to that town also. I think that the run for lead started when they began removing the lead from those first 75 victims. I notice (I should be a private eye) that some of your photos are missing. Were these censored by the locals?
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